new PC time maybe ??

[Mark]

so it's time for me to build a new PC it seems as though the PC in my signature is acting sketchy and is still running windows 7, i think now is a good time to build new.
the only thing i will be reusing are some hard drives , SSD's and for no w my vega64 graphics card.

list of parts i have chosen, what looks like it will not work together here, still need to get a copy of windows 10.

this build will be for random uses, gaming, media creation, general stuff, might be overkill but my last build lasted 10 years so i don't mind spending some money up front now to avoid having to upgrade later, but am open to all suggestions, price, ect.......



CPU cooler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y87YHRH?ps ... SARQZC7FR4

Motherboard
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDTM7VP5?ps ... SARQZC7FR4

2TB OS drive
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P2CG4JK?ps ... SARQZC7FR4

64GB gskill ram
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJP3MRW1?ps ... SARQZC7FR4

7950x CPU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBHD5D8Y?ps ... SARQZC7FR4


4TB drive for random storage
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYN8NHXS?ps ... SARQZC7FR4

case
https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Desi...l ... r=8-1&th=1


power supply
https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-foc...x ... 6817151187

[Easto]

That should definitely work for a lot of years to come. I really like that Mobo. If I was to do a new build it would probably be around that Mobo. Nice that you're going to install DDR5. Right now is a good time to be buying, prices are low.

[Philip]

I upgraded my PC recently, and my daughters'.

Here are the specs of mine:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900 65w 12-core AM5 (49k cpumark)
MoBo: Asus TUF Gaming B650-PLUS WiFi AMD socket AM5
RAM: GSKILL DDR5 5600 2x32gb
SSD OS: 2tb SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD PCIe 4.0 NVMe

I opted for an AMD Ryzen 9 7900 (12-core 24 threads) because of the low TDP of 65W. It's been solid and much faster than I actually use/need atm. The one you've picked is 170W, for a bit more computing power 49k vs 63k cpumark.
I like my MoBo for ~$200, I don't see the jump to the 670 chipset as much of an upgrade from the 650 chipset for more than double the price, same ASUS brand. My PC is wired, so I don't even use the Wi-Fi card on it.
If I was building a PC today, I may even splurge for a 4tb OS SSD like the Samsung 990 Pro, they were under $300 on Prime Day. Not that much for the storage, rather for wear leveling over the years. You can always clone it to a new SSD though.
I reused a Noctua CPU cooler I have from before, I have a couple of them with a single fan, but the low TDP it is an overkill anyway.

Just my thoughts.

[Mark]

maybe go bigger on power supply ? this one was on sale for $100, also deleted the 4TB drive for now was looking at gen 5 drives but not sure id really worth the money as i hear they run hot
PC parts picker list......

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/M4bQPF

[Mark]

Philip what size power supply ya running?

[Mark]

updated list for new 850watt PS ...



https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dkfZJy

[Easto]

My specs don't call for it but I run a 1000w PSU.

[Philip]

I am partial to SeaSonic PSUs, never had a problem with them. I've had a CoolerMaster go bad on me. I usually try to stay around 50% of the rated PSU load. 750W and above should be plenty, Corsair is a solid brand.


I run: SeaSonic FOCUS PX-850, 850W 80+ Platinum Full-Modular, the other PC has a 750W Gold, same brand. 750W is plenty for me, got the 850W because they were about the same price.

Newegg seems to have a SeaSonic 850W for $124, looks like a good deal (if you can fit ATX size PSU in your case, which should be ok imho): https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-p ... 17-151-188

[Mark]

thanks guys, updated list, i got a corsair 1000watt ATX3.0 for $159 direct from corsair and changed drive to WD black 2 TB drive


https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pGhz6D

[Mark]

so windows 10 or 11 which way should i go ?

and cheapest place to get a legit copy

[Philip]

I run Windows 10 on my desktop, Windows 11 on my laptop. I still like Windows 10 a bit better, menus are more straight-forward, OneDrive and MS account is not force-fed to you.

Microsoft offers the ISO and USB creation tool for free, so you can install it before you buy a license. Then, you can get the license directly from Microsoft, (~$110 for Windows 10 Home I think). I would be weary of cheap Amazon licenses, there are a lot of fake licenses for Windows/Office out there.

[Easto]

I've never had any problem with 11. I found most of the differences to be very small and easy to get use to.

[Mark]

i forgot, pro or home version, i always ran pro but what will i be missing from running home edition ?

[Philip]

If you run Home you can't be a Remote Desktop host. With Pro you can also join "Active Directory", you get Bitlocker encryption (optional, it slows down drives so I don't run it anyway), Group Policy editor, dual CPU support, and more than 128GB of RAM support.

[Mark]

thanks guys, looks like home is what i need, not sure what that remote desktop "host" means but i assume i can still remote into this PC from somewhere else if need be ??
i tried googling it but couldn't understand the differences LOL

[Easto]

That Thermalright cooler is getting a lot of excellent reviews. I was looking at one for myself. You can't beat the price. Do you really need a new case? Regardless, that should be one heck of a nice build.

[Mark]

was gonna get a noctua d15 or whatever but read that this cooler is actually better on the 7950x and was way cheaper, may go water cooling later but i doubt it, i always say that LOL

the case has modern connectivity options and my old case is about 16 years old, the power button broke off years ago and this new case is huge for more build options, i was surprised on how large it was.

[Philip]

Case looks good. RDP... Remote Desktop into the PC requires "Pro", remoting to someone else is client mode, which is fine even with Home. You can always use third-party software to remote into your PC if need be though.

[Mark]

Case looks good. RDP... Remote Desktop into the PC requires "Pro", remoting to someone else is client mode, which is fine even with Home. You can always use third-party software to remote into your PC if need be though.

that makes sense thank you

[Mark]

so i have a new rx6800 card and a corsair rm1000e power supply, my question is the card takes two 8 pin connectors, the power supply also has 1 pci-e cable that has a Modular PCIe Cable (8-PIN) (6+2)/(6+2) which means the non power supply end has a pigtail with two 6+2 connectors. the card directions say to use "two PCI-e cables" so i can't use this cable with the pigtail right ?



i need to use the other two PCI-e 6+2 cables on card instead of one cable ?



i just want to make sure i don't over power the card and fry anything.



maybe i'm over thinking this LOL

[Philip]

The newer cards draw a lot of amps, that's why they need one or two separate 6/8-pin cables in addition to the power provided from the PCI slot. Each PCIe 8-pin cable is rated at 150Watts at 12v. In addition the PCIe slot provides half that, up to 75W.. You can combine all that and see how much power (75W+150W+150W) you are providing as max draw to the card. The card probably doesn't require all that (375W) of power anyway, and those are minimum specs, good quality PSUs use thicker cables that are able to provide more current.

You will not fry anything if you use a pigtail, just the cable may get a bit warmer while gaming if the card is at full 100% load, especially if the cable is very long, or very thin.
If you use two separate cables it will be easier on the cables to provide full load, as it evens the load between them.

All that said, I've ran pigtails and they're just fine in most cases. I also use MSI Afterburner to lower the power consumption on the video card a bit, because I don't like frying eggs on my PC while gaming and I lower the fan noise.

[Mark]

thanks for the advice Philip, i just wasn't sure if using 2 separate cables would pull more watts through power supply but i guess the card will pull what it needs, i have it as 2 separate 6+2 cables now, i can see it being better on the cables for maybe balancing the power delivery and not over loading cables, am i right ?

[Philip]

Yes, you are correct.

[Mark]

a picture before i do first bootup/install of windows this weekend, after i get her up and running i will install my 6.4TB fusion io card and hope the drivers work with windows 10. and plug in the other drives in back of case......

https://www.speedguide.net/forums/attac ... 1698450509

[Philip]

Looking good

[Easto]

Cases have really come a long way. No more rat's nest of wires everywhere. I wish my case had those enclosed area for the PSU, I really like they way they clean up the look.

Once you get it up and running let me know how the fans on that CPU cooler sound.

[Mark]

remember the days of IDE and SCSI cables, those were fun to fold and manage.

easto those fans may be kinda crappy but for sure i will let ya know, i may change them out to noctua black fans in the future, i also added 2 more 120mm fans to case, 1 in front bottom, and 1 in bottom of case blowing into GPU. not sure how restrictive the filters are going to be so i did that.

[Philip]

I am still kind of partial to the PSU being on top of the case, as it sucks warm air rising from the MoBo area and takes it out of the case. This can easily be remedied by an exhaust fan in the top/back area though, I guess I am just getting old and don't like change, haha. I like the new cable management also, the MoBo trays, the bigger fans, 100-120mm can definitely be more silent than 80mms. That said, if you pick your 80mm fans (like I did with my rig) they can be pretty quiet too.

Anyway, looking good.

[Easto]

Mark... how's the new machine running? Inquiring minds want to know.

PS You should update your signature

[Mark]

holy crap i had to dig up my password up for e-mail to login after not logging in for years LOL'

the new forum looks awesome

yes system booted up fine first try and i have been playing around in bios, so much to try,

i tried for days to get my sandisc IOmemory card to work. i kinda got drivers to work in device manager, but the drive was way too slow for some reason and usually would crash on waking from sleep, so i removed it for now, plus i couldn't get the command line utilities for it to load, so frustrating.

but man this system is so fast, for a quick test i encoded 3 albums worth of .flac files to mp3 for my phone and it happened so fast i couldn't even look at another screen and it was done LOL

[Mark]

how do we post pics again ??

no forum picture hosting ??

[Mark]

easto the fans are not too bad but i am putting 2 noctua fans on there that blow more air if i need it, plus i am adding a 140mm noctua fan in rear of case because i am going to take original 140mm case fan from rear and am putting it in front, plus i added one fan in bottom blowing up to video card

[Mark]

https://yourimageshare.com/ib/jNEL4ZtFNN

[Mark]

it actually boosts to 5.5-5.7 depending on workload and gets about 37000-38000 on cinebench r23, and i am watching some volts to make sure it doesn't overvolt memory controller

[Philip]

It is a beast !
Your CPU temps seem high though. I just tried to stress-test mine with Prime95 and couldn't get any core go over 60 degrees C, idling it sits just under 40 degrees C. What stress-test were you using?

I remember the first time I installed this Ryzen I didn't like my temps, then yanked out the heatsink (well, carefully slid out), cleaned the thermal paste and applied a thin layer of good thermal paste ( I have some arctic silver 5 and some Noctua paste). I pressed the heatsink well and even twisted it a bit to make sure the thermal compound is well spread and a thin layer while it was still fresh and cold. Temperatures dropped 10+ degrees Celsius after that, both under load and idling. I've rarely had to do re-install a heatsink (one in 10 installs), but I didn't like the temps on this one, so I changed paste, made sure it's flat, cleaned with alcohol, pressed it a bit harder, and it made a huge difference in my case.

I am using a Noctua heatsink and single 120mm fan in "Quiet" cooling mode in the BIOS. Granted, my Ryzen 9 7900 is only 65W TDP, but I still think you should be able to do better temperature-wise on the CPU.

[Easto]

I'd have to agree with Philip. The first thing that stood out to me were the high CPU temps.

[Mark]

i may redo the heatsink, from what i read cpu is designed to run at 95c by default, i have had it lower running "eco" mode which is 65c,i still want to adjust core volts but for now it is default clocks/volts with expo 1 on memory and a few other changes. a work in progress for sure

maybe my new fans may help some, but that may only really get me more boost clocks.

[Philip]

Yes, temps up to 95C are considered "normal" at full load for that CPU, but I wouldn't want to run my CPU, or the surrounding electrical components on the MoBo at those temps for an extended period of time, I would look at the heatsink, even probably underclock it or something. Of course that's totally up to you, hehe

[Mark]

idle, new fans but still want to do new paste........

https://yourimageshare.com/ib/3SQMB1RrEn

[Philip]

Idle temps seem good, but yeah, while you're tinkering with it you may want to redo the paste just to be certain it's all good at full load.

Here is mine at idle with the Noctua heatsink, and one Noctua 120mm fan at ~1000 RPM

idle:

cpuid.png (50.73 KiB) Viewed 6495 times

after running prime95 CPU stress-test for a few minutes (without overclocking anything):

cpuid_stress.png (82.9 KiB) Viewed 6491 times